Rein Walking

YE Diaries by Jamie Worsley

After a brief 30 minutes to one hour meeting in the leader’s tent with the Lucys, Christian, Mark, Sarah, Fay and myself we decided which route would be the most adventurous one to take on the last excursion home around the coast. The nature of our Young Explorers keen attitude meant that we were to do the opposite of the other Fires and leave at an early 2am, as opposed to the normal and leisurely 0900 hours. By swapping day and night we can take advantage of the firmer footing on the tundra and the last few miles of snow. So we left at a prompt 2am with our rucksacks on our backs, some looking neater than others and some even managing to avoid putting kit inside the rucksack and instead strapping and laying kit off the outside (this is when the handless mug is a problem).

After a few hours there was a shared feeling amongst the Fire that the pulks that we happily left at Base Camp 3 were much easier and required less energy. We pushed on and it was not all in vain as we happened to spot a pod of beluga whales, which the biologists and non biologists alike enjoyed. Watching possibly 15 whales graciously swim through the water just off the coast of Hatten.

With only a few breaks we arrived at Deltaneset at 9 am and chose a suitable campsite. The girls set up their tents whilst the men bivvied out. Actually before Mark and I knew it Christian provided background music, by snoring, whilst we had dinner in our sleeping bags. Having a sleep or ‘power nap ’as it had been more frequently known towards the latter part of the expedition (especially in Tobredalen under Pat’s leadership) we set off at around 5pm heading in the direction of Carolinedalen. After numerous occasions of plunging through snow and bog, we kicked steps up the Carolinedalen col and set up a buried ice axe belay as the last 5 m as the gradient of the col proved too steep to walk up with full expedition packs on.


Jaime climbing the easy section of the slope up to the Carolinedalen col. Photo L. Bruzzone

We carried on the following day making our way across the Hanaskogelva and arrived at Hiorthhamn on the 12th. Having a nice evening sunshine on our face. Polarrev Fire joined us and we made a warm fire shielding us from the cold wind off Adventadalen. That night we savoured the moment as we all knew it was our penultimate campsite.

The next morning kicked off with the Doc banging on Christian and my tent and creating a wind tunnel which efficiently got us up. Rein headed for the beach as the boat was waiting to ferry us across with all the kit that we had been carrying for 10 weeks.


Boarding the rib ‘Hilmar’ for the trip across Adventfjorden and back to civilisation. Photo J. Worsley

Isbjorn's Walk Home

YE Diaries by Jamie Logie

We set off in the final Fire of the expedition, in a reflective mood, with the realisation that every step we now took was a step closer to home. Isbjørn (Ash, James, Adrian, Steve and our leader Richard) set out on the evening of the 9th, packs laden with 10 weeks worth of dirty kit, and moved 3km from camp to bivi out high on the cliff tops.


Clifftop bivvy Photo R. Payne

We spent the night under the sky, with the fulmars and puffins swooping above our heads, and an arctic fox yelping at us (clearly distressed at having a bunch of very smelly people living on his territory). The following morning, with our packs managing to have somehow doubled in size, we set off like a group of gypsy travellers down to the shore.

We walked along the beach, where the ground was firmer than the bog above, and made good speed, covering around 6 kilometres in an hour. We walked past Rein, who were slumbering peacefully after their 2am start, and sat watching a great skua feed on a dead puffin. That night we lit a bonfire to burn our rubbish, with Ash’s goal to burn every piece of wood on the beach. We failed to achieve this audacious goal, but did manage to fumigate Richard and his tent, and give our sleeping bags the strange scent of a wood fire. That night, the sight of an enormous walrus swimming by our camp sent us into a restful sleep.

For what we thought to be our final full day in the wilderness (we were, in fact, to arrive a day early having mixed up our dates), we set off along the coastal route beneath the cliffs of Forkastings as opposed to going via Carolinedalen. We were unsure if this route was passable or not (last years YEs had been turned back by an advancing tide), so with the threat of having to give up and retreat at any point looming over our heads, we raced onwards against the tide, Thankfully, our route proved fruitful, and we stormed round to Reveneset (within view of the airport) by midday.

The coast between here and Hiorthhamn (our boat pick up point) was littered with quaint huts, disused mining equipment and WWII gun placements. We felt especially at home amongst the machines of the ‘Campbell Gas Works. Halifax, England’.


James ‘at home’ on the Campbell gas engine. Photo R .Payne

We bivied out on the beach, under James’ defiantly flapping English flag, for what we thought to be the last time. Sadly we were to spend the day waiting in vain due to our timing issues. A visit from a group of Norwegian kayakers, who though we had claimed the area in the name of her majesty, kept us amused before we settled down for our actual last night.

The Fires united on Saturday morning as the boat pulled in to Hiorthhamn bay. So it was, with our heavy pack and light hearts, that we sped across the bay under the glorious arctic sun into civilization.

In The Beginning

YE Diaries by James Settrey

The start of this expedition could be seen as the day I went to the meeting in Newcastle on what BSES were planning, the days I spent acquiring equipment, or the weekend camping in Scotland. For me however it was the explosion of energy and mad panic at Heathrow airport. It has been seven weeks since I stood side-by-side with the other young explorers (YEs), some I half knew from previous meets others complete strangers; in the queue for tickets.


Strangers at Heathrow Photo M. Kittle

When I think back on that day my memory plays as if on fast forward. The tickets were handed out, the heavy bags checked, then we were off flying to Copenhagen, then Oslo, (each time getting the same airplane safety procedure on how to manually inflate our lifejackets, etc.) then finally Longyearbyen. It was cold, and dark, with air so crisp that it stole the breath from your lungs; coughing and spluttering we walked across the small airfield to the terminal. There was no need to check passports, or go through security, we simply collected our bags and were soon on a bus on route to the hostel which would be our refuge for the next 4 nights. The hostel seems luxurious to me now, four bathrooms (with a shower), kettles, central heating, and nice soft, warm beds; although I’m sure may have seen it differently at the time.

It was whilst at the hostel the Fires were chosen, an identity which seemed so important then, has little influence now as every YE is a friend. I do remember, though, that it was with Isbjørn Fire that I set off to Base Camp One (BC1). The journey still holds some memories; our first ‘snowed in day’ when Ash dug a hole, which only purpose seemed to be to trap his tent partner Ben in; and the first taste of downhill pulking. Though many of the jokes, and funny moments have been lost to newer ones, the feeling of excitement and wonder that accompanied me throughout that first little adventure still remains.

Base Camp One itself brought with it an interesting problem, which had been worried about by many since they left the comfortable bathroom facilities of the hostel. Although some (myself included) had braved the cold behind, and lack of privacy which came with the snow dug toilet, others were holding out in hope of something more civilised at base camp…cometh the ‘toilet tent’. It offered more privacy, and some protection from the elements, however it didn’t have the view, or the ventilation, of the outdoor toilet!

Time, however, at BC1 was brief and soon we were off (in our Fires) once again, Polarrev ski toured to the Blackbreen Glacier, whereas myself and Isbjørn left for the Foxbreen Glacier. It was here that the real first Base Camp was founded, we settled in the edge of the terminal moraine, pitched tents and tentipi, and began the science work.


Isbjørn surveying on the Foxbreen Photo R.Payne

Again my memory of this time does not account for every joke, laugh and tease, indeed it is from this time one of my worst memories of this trip comes from. Tied by rope in a group of five, one probing the depth of snow, another GPSing, and one more noting the information. The problem which occurred you may have already spotted…three jobs, five people. I was left to envy Emily, who was meant to be the other redundant YE on the rope, but managed to clinch the prestige job of shouting “stop!” ever nine meters. It took a long time to make it back down to the bottom of the Foxbreen, and by then I was almost broken. Although time has a way of making even the darkest moments seem not so bad, and now looking back I get a strong sense of pride that I was able to help ‘map a glacier’.

Polarrev Glacial Geomorphology

YE Diaries by Herpreet Bhamra (29 May - 08 June 2009)

After an action packed adventure week with Richard Polarrev Fire were ready to rest their weary blistered feet and hang up their plastic mountain boots for good (or at least 10 days). The previous science group lost no time in reassuring us that we were in for 10 days of R&R and we slept peacefully that night dreaming of days filled with sunbathing on the glacier and afternoon naps at 4. After 9 weeks in the arctic I should have learned that nothing goes exactly to plan. Nature had other ideas. Pit digging days with Pat consisted of an exhausting 2 ½ hour trek up the Blackbreen glacier and taking shifts digging pits in the snowpack until we reached the glacial ice. The pits were all over 2m deep and we had to construct steps in the hole to escape into the glorious sunshine. GPS-ing (daleking) days with Lucy B comprised of being roped to 4 others and zig-zagging up the glacier. Being attached to Sarah and James for 8 continuous hours is an experience that I do not care to relive again soon! My back lives in constant fear of seeing another day of measuring the snow depth of 417s point up the glacier with the avalanche probe.

The river which we are camped next to was slowly saturating with water and surged one night so we spent one day in the river, in those oh so flattering fluorescent orange waders mapping the river down the valley and measuring the flow.


Mark modelling the waders Photo L. Bruzzone

Due to the rapid rate of melting, our camp slowly began resembling a very boggy minefield and trips to the well and toilet became like circus acts with us nimbly jumping from one island of compressed snow to another. But we were well rewarded for our hard work. One sunny afternoon was dedicated to a session of arctic yoga in which we learnt that 10 weeks of expeditioning, pulking huge distances, clinging to ice walls with nothing but crampons and prayers, does absolutely nothing whatsoever to improve your balance or flexibility. On the 3rd June we celebrated Emily’s birthday in style. The entire Fire was invited to her ‘Arctic Birthday party ‘ and we spent the morning outside sunbathing in our -25º sleeping bags. For the afternoon we went survival bagging down an almost vertical slope and in the evening we all enjoyed a spoonful or two of birthday cake (gingernut base, crème choc chip desert layer and jelly topped with sprinkles) contrived by the culinary geniuses Mark and Joe in their tent. A memorable birthday we hoped.


Emily with her ‘birthday cake’

On our last day we summitted Ottofjellet which provided us with stunning view of the sea and surrounding mountains. We watched the boys ski gracefully down from the top without skins, they in turn then impatiently watched the girls slowly sidestep gingerly down, all Pat’s skiing lessons forgotten. A fitting final week for the expedition.


Herpreet, Emily and Sarah on Ottofjellet Photo S. Phillips

Expedition Media Archive

We've just uploaded some video and pictures from throughout the expedition onto our You Tube and Flickr sites - click the link below to view them...

You Tube Channel - http://uk.youtube.com/user/BSESExpeditions

Flickr Page - http://www.flickr.com/photos/37114457@N06/

Looking Back (again) - Isbjorn Biology

YE Diaries by Mark Kittle


Mark on Diabasodden with the bay and Hatton behind. Photo M. Kittle

The first day we had incredible weather – glass like sea, loads of pack ice and glorious sunshine. We had a recce day to work out projects for the rest of the week and to see what birds were on the cliffs. That’s when we had our first wildlife encounter, a walrus, not 10 metres away, feeding in the shallows. It swiftly disappeared under the ice after we disturbed it. We carried on our walk and had lunch sat on a headland in the sun, watching for more wildlife. Other than birds we were let down though. However we did find a good place to watch the geese from for one of our studies. We walked back over the tops of the cliffs to camp.

Adrian and I packed our rucksacks and went to set the hide up about 2km from camp. The next few days were spent rotating people in the hide counting geese, setting up personal projects and keeping an eye out for interesting creatures.

On the second day we were rewarded with a sighting of the elusive beluga whale. The days of sitting and counting were taking their toll on some of the group’s less sedentary members but everybody came up with their own project. I’m looking at bird counting techniques, Sarah and James are looking at the melting of the river, Adrian is studying goose behaviour and Herpreet is looking at the effect skidoos have on vegetation. We also have the group projects of the goose counting and snow pack analysis.


Sarah and James working on their project Photo M. Kittle

Our last day doing biology was spent on a trip to Janusfjellet to look for fossils. We got there about lunchtime and spent a few hours fossil hunting and came away with examples of prehistoric creatures.


Amonite (left) and Aucella (right). Photo H. Bhamra

That was our biology week. We had an early morning the next day and left Base Camp 3 to meet up with Isbjørn Adventure

looking Back (again) - Isbjorn Adventure 2

YE Diaries by Pippa Sellars (29 May - 8 June 2009)

Having spent 10 days at the Tobredalen Science camp we (Steve, Fay, Jaime W, Christian, Jamie L, Ben and Pippa) were excited about embarking on our final stage of our arctic experience before heading back to Longyearbyen. The next ten days would be Adventure for some, and Adventure and Biology for others, but we all set off together with Richard and Doctor Lucy up the Blackbreen to camp on Blackbreen col for the night. The next morning we roped up again for a leisurely pulk down Knorringbreen to Wimanbreen col. The plan for the day had been to summit Wimanfjellet but the low clouds meant that we would have no views when we got to the top, thus we waited for a weather window. We waited and waited and when we got bored of waiting some of us consumed excessive amounts of our ration packs. One YE was even caught bypassing the cracker stage and squeezing Primula directly into their mouth. The result was that from one tent “I cant go mountaineering; I’m too full” were heard.

The clouds pressed down for the rest of the day and we went to bed for a wake up call at any time of the night to make the most of clear skies. At 4am Richard clanged pots and pans and we got ready for the climb. The clouds were low and visibility poor as we walked along the ridge to the bottom of the bump that is Wimanfjellet. Only at the last minute could we see the top. At 6.30am we reached the top and we were all taken aback by the view. We could see Sassendalen, Tunabreen, the ship all in glorious sunshine. To the north we could see Oscar II land and hundreds of mountains and glaciers. After the descent we bid farewell to Steve, Fay and Lucy who were returning to Base Camp.

The next day, as a result of our skiing instruction from Pat in Tobredalen, we felt confident enough to go skinless skiing with pulks down Hanaskogdalen. Our knees together – ankles apart method may not have looked pretty, in fact, onlooking Norwegians may have wet themselves, but we successfully dodged the slush and set up camp about 2km from the coast.


Isbjørn Adventure Fire Photo B.Holmes

After a nights sleep to the sound of running water from Ben’s water feature we walked to the coast. Clear blue skies and only a slight sea breeze meant we could relax on the beach. The YE’s prove fascinated by the contents of one of the huts pointing out items such as a lamp and a sofa. The sighting of the Tabasco sauce, got everyone to the window! Since moving from BC2 when the skidoos stopped travelling due to melting sea ice, we haven’t seen many signs of civilization so seeing Longyearbyen and the airport reminded us that all too soon we will be heading home. Whilst relaxing on the porch of a hut we watched a practice air sea rescue in Adventfjorden and saw the SAS plane that we will be taking in two weeks time take off for Oslo. That evening we handed in our watches so that Richard was the only person that knew the time.

At an unknown, but certainly early hour, we set off to climb Hiorthfjellet. Making the most of the crunchy early morning snow we started our climb. Using pigeon holes and zig zags we made our way up to the final ridge. The snow was deep and kept balling on our crampons. After about three hours climbing we reached the enormous plateau at the top. From here we could see down Adventdalen where we first camped nearly 60days ago. Following our alpine start we headed down extremely steep ridges and returned on the other side of Hiorthfjellet bowl to camp for a nap before pulking back up Hanaskogdalen to the Brandtbreen moraine.

By the 5th June we were camped on the col between Blackbreen and Brantbreen and could see the good work the science group had been doing on the Blackbreen. Another early wake up, or so we felt, we set off to climb Staket and two other peaks which form a horseshoe around the southern horn of the Blackbreen glacier. Once again our climb started in cloud but by the time we reached the first view point we could see down Tobredalen with its newly de-iced river and to the Tunabreen glacier and beyond. The day went quickly as we climbed to our highest point, 989m, along a ridge with a steep drop to Blackbreen on one side. We caught sight of Polarrev climbing Ottofjellet and then skiing down with impressive balance. After seeing the first reindeer calf of the season we trudged back up Blackbreen in what felt like searing heat to our camp.

By 6th June our group numbered 7 with Helen joining us from Biology Fire and we prepared for a bivi on top of Telgefjellet. Thus armed only with our sleeping bags, bivi bags and stoves we climbed to the plateau at 921m and started to dig our snow graves about 20m apart. For most of us this was the first time since April 2nd that we had slept alone and had time to ourselves. Digging a space the size of a roll mat about a foot deep to get out of the wind some YEs felt this was sufficient and got into bed. Others went more extravagant building rooves and ensuites. The effort that went into these homes was extreme with blocks at least 2m by 1m being in place by morning. One labourer was not too sure of the sturdiness of his walls so slept with his hard hat on lest the wind pick up during the night. Humble or huge we all relished in the silence of sleeping in the open and the view when we woke was spectacular. The sea was gold, we could see all the peaks we had climbed and the mountains in the distance resembled an oil painting.


An elaborate snow grave Photo B.Holmes

We relaxed in the stillness of the mountain top until we were instructed to pack up and leave. Completely unaware of the time, we returned to our pulks and set off roped up across Blackbreen on our final return to Base Camp 3. Thinking it must be about 3 or 4pm none of the YEs had contemplated having dinner, presuming we would have it when we set up camp. We came down Wimandalen to the newly flowing Wimanelva and pulked and skied our last kilometre of this trip. The snow no longer reached the sea so before Base Camp we would have to carry our pulks. At midnight we got out the stoves and had dinner by the river and shortly after we loaded our kit into our bags and walked to Base Camp 3. By the time we had returned and hoisted our pulks on our bags and finally got all our kit to Base Camp it was 4am. We stealthily put up our tents and dosed off to the sound of the sea.

Looking Back (again) - Isbjorn Adventure 1

YE diaries by Emily McKie (17 - 28 May 2009)

The new Isbjørn were split into two groups – biology and adventure. The adventure trio (Joe, Ash and Emily) starting straight away with a night out alone at the base of Wimanbreen. It was a weird feeling having only 1 tent within the bear flares but we made it very homely with a luxury seat, table and even a garage that Joe built for our pulks!


Isbjørn adventure building on their snow and ice skills Photo L. Dickinson

We crammed a lot of mountains into the week, starting with a small peak, Knerton (585m) on which we practised mountaineering skills, such as cutting steps and ice axe arrests. These started tamely enough, but we were soon throwing ourselves down an icy slope headfirst backwards. We slid back to camp, where the new Chicken and vegetable pasta meal awaited us, on our backs, the Gore-tex material allowing us to reach unnerving speeds.

We also climbed Wimanfjellet (985m), involving walking along a really cool corniced horseshoe shaped ridge, Knorringfjellet (948m) which was covered in cloud and Konusen (987m) the highest in the area. Whenever the cloud cleared the views were spectacular, particularly the way the sun broke through to light up patches on the never ending snowy mountains. We could also see the divide between the sea and melting sea ice. The coolest climb was Telgefjellet. Although only 918m it was a harder climb. A compass error meant we got lost at the top and walked along a knife sharp ridge, the steep sides either side of us swimming in and out of view as the clouds moved.

On the first day of poorer weather we built an igloo. An ice saw was used to cut massive blocks in the ‘block factory’ which were then transported to the igloo building site on a pulk board. After 3 ½ hours the ‘ugloo’ was completed – it wasn’t picture perfect and was shaped more like a beehive but was massive, even allowing for standing room.


Emily, Ash and Joe with their ‘ugloo’. Photo L. Dickinson

We spent the evening making a cake for Richard’s birthday, concocted of digestive biscuits, jelly, crème choc chip desert and sprinkles. We surprised him with it at breakfast, then spent the rest of the day chilling, doing a treasure hunt and building a ‘snowhenge’, praying to the sun gods for the sun. After a week we joined the biologists and re-climbed Knorringfjellet but this time were able to see the spectacular view from the top. We bivvied out that night, only getting snowed on a little.


Isbjørn reunited and on top of Knorringfjellet, last’adventure’ before starting the glacier science work. Photo L. Dickinson

Sauna Day

Isbjørn ascend the Brandtbreen to the Brandtbreen col and Polarrev make an RTK GPS survey of the Tobredalen river as well as a sediment survey. Isbjørn biology continue working from Base Camp and in the afternoon construct a tepee and have a sauna, enjoying the heat and the cooling wash in the river afterwards. Steve and Fay then head off in the afternoon for another evening and morning of goose counting. Rype start heading back, stopping when they get to Deltadalen. Northerly breeze, some cloud, temperature not recorded.


Teepee sauna on the beach at Base Camp 3 Photo L. Dickinson

Geese surveying

Isbjørn continue down Hanaskogdalen to the coast whilst Polarrev write up science. Isbjørn biology walk under the bird cliffs of Diabasodden and learn to identify the different bird species and continue monitoring the snow patch. Steve and Fay then spend the night in the hide counting the geese from 1900 to 2300 and 0700 to 1100 on 3.6.09. Rype have an alpine start to try to find a safe way round the north of Forkastningsfjellet, with no success. Northerly breeze,
clear, +2ºc.


Rype on recce for the route for expedition walk back to Hiortthamn. The col separating Carolindalen and Louisdalen in the background has a maximum slope of 50 degrees. It is manageable with an expedition sack, just won’t be much fun! Photo Rype

Looking Back

YE Diaries - Joe Jones (4-11 May 2009)

For this part of the expedition we headed towards the east of the island. The environment is much harsher and colder as it does not benefit from the warmth of the Gulf Stream. Despite this it is still much warmer compared to the start of the expedition, when we were dealing with -25º c and below as compared to a more comfortable -15º to -10º c. This has allowed for easier socialising which in turn has opened up the possibility for poker and many other fun activities such as survival bagging down snow slopes.

As for the actual expedition itself we did lots of ski touring, exploring the local area around Vendomdalen (Martin Conway’s ‘turn around valley’ on his exploratory journey to find the east coast), as well as mountaineering. The highlight of the trip was climbing Trehøgdene and walking along the ridge, which at its highest point was 682m.

Polarrev on Trehøgdene 7.5.09 Photo J. Jones

View of Vendomdalen from Trehøgdene 7.5.09 Photo J. Jones

Beluga's

Isbjørn come down to meet up with Helen and one at the igloo that Isbjørn adventure built, at the head of Wimandalen. Polarrev continue working on the Blackbreen survey and slush pits. Rype are awoken by beluga feeding in their bay and spend from 0230 to0400 watching and photographing them. What a fantastic couple of hours in the low sunlight with hardly a breeze, a shame the Fires aren’t in but hopefully the belugas will return in their circuit when more people are in Base Camp.


Beluga just off Base Camp 3 0308hrs 31/5/09. Photo - Rype

The top of the snow hardened over night and the wind changes to an easterly blowing sea ice back into the bay. The Wimanelva (stream) today flows as a full stream, as far back as the Gronstein col, for the first time. Rype prepare for an extended reconnaissance of the route to Hiorthhamn, as conditions this year are rather different. Some thin cloud, easterly breeze, +3ºc.

Fire Change

Fire Change! Click on The Team to see the new fires.

Isbjørn get up early and move down from the Blackbreen to Tobredalen for 1000hrs for a Fire change. Polarrev resurvey the slush pits and prepare for a handover of the project and a Fire change. The new Isbjørn leave science camp after the 2000hrs radio schedule to move back up to the top of the Blackbreen. Ash and Emily do their 2 minute presentations about themselves, we learn how much Ash likes cheese and Emily’s breakfast routine. Rype hold a leaders’ meeting then ski back to Base Camp with a large pulk of kit and rubbish, they cross the col for their ninth time and leave the pulk at the snow line which has moved yet again further back up the Wimandalen. The sea starts to refreeze off Base Camp 3. Clear, light westerly breeze, +1ºc.

Isbjørn arrive at glacier science camp. The YEs will stay and become Polarrev, Richard and Lucy D will move out with the other YEs who will become Isbjørn – confusing eh? Photo Rype

Up to Knerton

Diary by Joe Jones

This morning Jaime W and Emily were appointed day leader and science leader and were subsequently briefed on the day’s activities. Isbjørn were to climb Knerton without leaders to assess our ability to work with each other. Once packed up out of camp and on the ridgeline we stopped for a check of maps. Knerton seemed far bigger and steeper than it came across on the map. However it was a clear day and having been in touch with Lucy D via the UHF radios we all dicided to continue onwards and upwards. Jaime lead the Fire on the way after the approach and the last 30 or so metres kicking steps. We reached the top for photos and a stunning view down to Sassenfjorden.


Joe on the summit of Knerton

Once back in camp a few hours later we were given an hour to make a quick turnaround for the evening ice climb. This climb was not as big as the time before on Tunabreen, however seemed more challenging, in the fact that it was vertical all the way. The ice was also much softer as it was a frozen waterfall. Everyone agreed it was their favourite, everyone making it to the top may have influenced this! We eventually got back to camp around 2100hrs for a late supper and bed.

Adventure to Ice Cave

Isbjorn 3- Mark, Pippa, Jamie Logie, Herpreet, Sarah
Written by Sarah Phillips

We had an absolutely unforgettable day. Our leader Richard had managed to cast his mind back and relocate an untouched ice cave (0537021, 694476) just behind our camp up a steep valley. He was however concerned about the huge cornice overhanging the valley, especially since the snow was heavily piling up and the weather was vicious. So we ventured up the side of the valley in the relentless wind that tries to knock you over as you wobble and sway up the incline.

After about an hour we reached the point where we were going to be lowered down into the valley and ‘letter-posted’ into the little slot of the cave, however instead we heel-kicked our way down. We slid into the tiny gap that was barely noticeable and could easily go undetected. Once in there however, it opened up into a huge church-like cavern. It was stunning. A once running river had frozen over the slick pebbles and rocks, creating perfectly gleaming transparent steps, inviting us further into the unknown. The ceiling glistened and sparkled, secretly twinkling out of the corner of your eye. I really had the sense of the Snow Queen’s forgotten lair. You could also make out the immaculately presented layers of rock and ice, demonstrating the way the cave had formed and frozen in stages.

We excitedly ventured further in, coming across untouched beauty such as cascading water paused delicately as it splashed to the floor and fragile glass-like icicles ranging in all sizes balanced from the starry ceiling. When we stepped up and into the waiting tunnel, our cramponed feet crunched through the icy steps; the sound of breaking glass bounced off the rippled walls. At times the path ahead sneakily veered off and we discovered all kinds of secret, special nooks. At frequent intervals the roof nearly touched the floor, forcing us to belly crawl our way along the slipping glassy ground and then it would grandly open up onto a tunnel of waving walls casting a dusty rose glow streaked with iridescent ice.

We settled to do our scientific discoveries of the cave, planning to map it out by taking detailed measurements at frequent intervals along the 240m tunnel. We measured the length to the point we couldn’t squeeze through the tiny gaps anymore, even though Pip would try in vain in her over-stuffed down jacket. We eventually hope to turn our results into a 3-D model of the cave and create a task for future YEs to investigate.

When we reached the back (0537089, 8694604) our leader told us to turn off our head torches and simply appreciate the still darkness and utter silence. It was amazing; the thick pressing black and the saturated quietness reminded us of what we’ve been lacking. It is easy to forget being in such conditions, as we’ve not experienced any kind of darkness for 5 weeks or had the luxury of utter silence as there is always a wind howling or a skin on a ski humming. It was truly a special moment of meditating and appreciating these simple things. Richard reckoned there had been less people in the cave than on Everest- quite an unusual thought to be part of a minute number.
After 5 hours of hardcore science and spectacular adventure, we rugged up and braved the angry weather. We were staggered by how blustery it was outside yet we couldn’t hear a whisper in the cave, which got to a tropical +2 degrees. Richard was adamant we didn’t wait around because of the precariously balanced snow-ladened cornice. So we galloped and loped back down hurriedly in the deep snow, adrenaline pumping as we clumsily staggered past remnants of previous fresh avalanches. After a short while we reached our beloved camp and escaped the harrowing wind. All in all a magical day that can’t really be described!

Fulmar surveys

Isbjørn pulk across the sea ice to Kapp Belvedere whilst Polarrev pulk into Trehøgddalen. Rein and Rype pulk round to the mouth of Nøisdalen, set up camp then ski up the narrow valley to make a survey of the fulmar in the amphitheatre. It is possible to go up the opposite stream bank so they are eye level with the fulmars in their holes in the cliff face. Ben and then Adrian ski back down to camp ‘skinless’ enjoying the speed, but Fay with skins on still beats them back. Clear, easterly breeze, temperature not recorded.

Photos of Rein in Nøisdalen

Nøisdalen. Helen with Adrian and James doing the fulmar survey. Photo A. Harris


Fay and Ben surveying the fulmar colony. photo A. Harris


The fulmars at home! Photo A. Harris

Yann visits

Isbjørn turn back from the Tunabreen due to standing water and head along the north side of Tempelfjorden to camp 5km southwest of Kapp Murdoch. Polarrev carry out a recce of Trehøgddalen and return to their camp. Rein and Rype join forces and pulk to Kapp Schoultz, pausing at Villa Fredheim, an old hunters house on the way. Rein/Rype set up camp on the beach and have time to explore. Adrian enjoys finding so many fossils. Yann a YE on the 2006 Svalbard Spring exped comes out to visit by scooter, with 2 of his university friends, bringing with him ski binding parts and treats for the YEs. Rein enjoy the opportunity to talk to new people. Everyone sees the arctic fox whilst it patrols under the sea cliffs that are full of fulmars. Overcast, clearing, -5ºc.


To see more photos from Yann's visit, go to http://picasaweb.google.com/sunjuice/Bses. Thanks Yann!

Polarrev Diary - by Sarah Phillips

Polarrev pulking in the storm on the way out to the east coast. 28.4.09 – photo Mark Kittle

"We left our camp with Sarah leading (057968, 866731) at a very reasonable time of 9.50am, which is a first. The starting 10km was completely flat. We were surrounded by the mosaic repetition of snow-capped mountains sprinkled with chocolate as the first signs of dirt start to make an appearance with the snow melting early. Sometimes there was an interruption of a steeply sloping wet glacier, and the ground presented glimpses of turquoise glowing ice as the water underneath begins to melt and swell.
We eventually hit a skidoo track heading to the far right of the distant moraines that we were destined for, just as the sun became shrouded in cloud. Following this track we eventually entered the moraine field (057314, 867421) and faced 5 consecutive climbs."

Climbing a moraine hill 29.4.09 – photo Mark Kittle

"On reaching a glacier (057144, 867585) the group roped up in threes, with Mark lending his mountaineering expertise to speed up the process. Crossing the glacier was made very difficult by these ropes, especially with skis and pulks as you have to maintain an appropriate distance between each pulker so that the rope is just gently grazing the floor, but not so that you are being pulled along (if only!) Unfortunately for some, their pulks were not quite as cooperative and James had to consistently tend his mischievous pulk. It was a quick crossing and we were on the other side (057022, 867628) in no time. As we un-roped we noticed that the glacier we had crossed was in fact split at the end."

"This decoupled glacier exposed a striking cobalt blue ice face and was carving into a frozen lake, suggesting that an invading underwater stream had caused the unusual glacial separation (0570214, 8676280)."

The group having a break – photo Mark Kittle

"We still had to dip and twist our way through the moraines on the other side. At one point some of us were forced to pulk on foot as the steep and long scramble got the better of our skis. Luckily those of us longer-legged members, such as Jamie Logie and James, were able to heroically help the others drag their pulks up.
Eventually we settled into camp, tucking right (056980, 867720) after the moraines onto a fairly flat plot after a long day of 15km."

Isbjorn Diary - by Ash Sethia

Isbjørn at the ‘BSES’ hut photo Joe Jones

"Leaving camp behind us Isbjørn were excited to be making our way to the legendary BSES hut. To get there we made our way back across Tempelfjorden on yet another bright sunny day, arriving around 1500 for a snow filled hut perched on the edge of a big pile of moraine. After the initial excitement of having four walls and a roof again the digging began and promptly stopped again when we discovered that the last resident had in fact been a polar bear (there were prints on the beds).
After we got over that fact we finally finished clearing out and repairing the hut and enjoyed the rest of the day on the roof relaxing. The evening was spent round a warming fire and after a game of poker round the table we all went to sleep in the hut."

Ship ahoy!

Isbjørn head off across the sea ice of Sassenfjorden making for the ship that is frozen into the ice, and then go on to camp on the northern side of the fjord. Polarrev head up Sassendalen towards the east coast. Rype sort rubbish and prepare to move some equipment forward to Elveneset. Still, clear, -12ºc.


Polarrev leaving Base Camp 2 for their journey to the East Coast with Templet in the background.