looking Back (again) - Isbjorn Adventure 2

YE Diaries by Pippa Sellars (29 May - 8 June 2009)

Having spent 10 days at the Tobredalen Science camp we (Steve, Fay, Jaime W, Christian, Jamie L, Ben and Pippa) were excited about embarking on our final stage of our arctic experience before heading back to Longyearbyen. The next ten days would be Adventure for some, and Adventure and Biology for others, but we all set off together with Richard and Doctor Lucy up the Blackbreen to camp on Blackbreen col for the night. The next morning we roped up again for a leisurely pulk down Knorringbreen to Wimanbreen col. The plan for the day had been to summit Wimanfjellet but the low clouds meant that we would have no views when we got to the top, thus we waited for a weather window. We waited and waited and when we got bored of waiting some of us consumed excessive amounts of our ration packs. One YE was even caught bypassing the cracker stage and squeezing Primula directly into their mouth. The result was that from one tent “I cant go mountaineering; I’m too full” were heard.

The clouds pressed down for the rest of the day and we went to bed for a wake up call at any time of the night to make the most of clear skies. At 4am Richard clanged pots and pans and we got ready for the climb. The clouds were low and visibility poor as we walked along the ridge to the bottom of the bump that is Wimanfjellet. Only at the last minute could we see the top. At 6.30am we reached the top and we were all taken aback by the view. We could see Sassendalen, Tunabreen, the ship all in glorious sunshine. To the north we could see Oscar II land and hundreds of mountains and glaciers. After the descent we bid farewell to Steve, Fay and Lucy who were returning to Base Camp.

The next day, as a result of our skiing instruction from Pat in Tobredalen, we felt confident enough to go skinless skiing with pulks down Hanaskogdalen. Our knees together – ankles apart method may not have looked pretty, in fact, onlooking Norwegians may have wet themselves, but we successfully dodged the slush and set up camp about 2km from the coast.


Isbjørn Adventure Fire Photo B.Holmes

After a nights sleep to the sound of running water from Ben’s water feature we walked to the coast. Clear blue skies and only a slight sea breeze meant we could relax on the beach. The YE’s prove fascinated by the contents of one of the huts pointing out items such as a lamp and a sofa. The sighting of the Tabasco sauce, got everyone to the window! Since moving from BC2 when the skidoos stopped travelling due to melting sea ice, we haven’t seen many signs of civilization so seeing Longyearbyen and the airport reminded us that all too soon we will be heading home. Whilst relaxing on the porch of a hut we watched a practice air sea rescue in Adventfjorden and saw the SAS plane that we will be taking in two weeks time take off for Oslo. That evening we handed in our watches so that Richard was the only person that knew the time.

At an unknown, but certainly early hour, we set off to climb Hiorthfjellet. Making the most of the crunchy early morning snow we started our climb. Using pigeon holes and zig zags we made our way up to the final ridge. The snow was deep and kept balling on our crampons. After about three hours climbing we reached the enormous plateau at the top. From here we could see down Adventdalen where we first camped nearly 60days ago. Following our alpine start we headed down extremely steep ridges and returned on the other side of Hiorthfjellet bowl to camp for a nap before pulking back up Hanaskogdalen to the Brandtbreen moraine.

By the 5th June we were camped on the col between Blackbreen and Brantbreen and could see the good work the science group had been doing on the Blackbreen. Another early wake up, or so we felt, we set off to climb Staket and two other peaks which form a horseshoe around the southern horn of the Blackbreen glacier. Once again our climb started in cloud but by the time we reached the first view point we could see down Tobredalen with its newly de-iced river and to the Tunabreen glacier and beyond. The day went quickly as we climbed to our highest point, 989m, along a ridge with a steep drop to Blackbreen on one side. We caught sight of Polarrev climbing Ottofjellet and then skiing down with impressive balance. After seeing the first reindeer calf of the season we trudged back up Blackbreen in what felt like searing heat to our camp.

By 6th June our group numbered 7 with Helen joining us from Biology Fire and we prepared for a bivi on top of Telgefjellet. Thus armed only with our sleeping bags, bivi bags and stoves we climbed to the plateau at 921m and started to dig our snow graves about 20m apart. For most of us this was the first time since April 2nd that we had slept alone and had time to ourselves. Digging a space the size of a roll mat about a foot deep to get out of the wind some YEs felt this was sufficient and got into bed. Others went more extravagant building rooves and ensuites. The effort that went into these homes was extreme with blocks at least 2m by 1m being in place by morning. One labourer was not too sure of the sturdiness of his walls so slept with his hard hat on lest the wind pick up during the night. Humble or huge we all relished in the silence of sleeping in the open and the view when we woke was spectacular. The sea was gold, we could see all the peaks we had climbed and the mountains in the distance resembled an oil painting.


An elaborate snow grave Photo B.Holmes

We relaxed in the stillness of the mountain top until we were instructed to pack up and leave. Completely unaware of the time, we returned to our pulks and set off roped up across Blackbreen on our final return to Base Camp 3. Thinking it must be about 3 or 4pm none of the YEs had contemplated having dinner, presuming we would have it when we set up camp. We came down Wimandalen to the newly flowing Wimanelva and pulked and skied our last kilometre of this trip. The snow no longer reached the sea so before Base Camp we would have to carry our pulks. At midnight we got out the stoves and had dinner by the river and shortly after we loaded our kit into our bags and walked to Base Camp 3. By the time we had returned and hoisted our pulks on our bags and finally got all our kit to Base Camp it was 4am. We stealthily put up our tents and dosed off to the sound of the sea.

Looking Back (again) - Isbjorn Adventure 1

YE diaries by Emily McKie (17 - 28 May 2009)

The new Isbjørn were split into two groups – biology and adventure. The adventure trio (Joe, Ash and Emily) starting straight away with a night out alone at the base of Wimanbreen. It was a weird feeling having only 1 tent within the bear flares but we made it very homely with a luxury seat, table and even a garage that Joe built for our pulks!


Isbjørn adventure building on their snow and ice skills Photo L. Dickinson

We crammed a lot of mountains into the week, starting with a small peak, Knerton (585m) on which we practised mountaineering skills, such as cutting steps and ice axe arrests. These started tamely enough, but we were soon throwing ourselves down an icy slope headfirst backwards. We slid back to camp, where the new Chicken and vegetable pasta meal awaited us, on our backs, the Gore-tex material allowing us to reach unnerving speeds.

We also climbed Wimanfjellet (985m), involving walking along a really cool corniced horseshoe shaped ridge, Knorringfjellet (948m) which was covered in cloud and Konusen (987m) the highest in the area. Whenever the cloud cleared the views were spectacular, particularly the way the sun broke through to light up patches on the never ending snowy mountains. We could also see the divide between the sea and melting sea ice. The coolest climb was Telgefjellet. Although only 918m it was a harder climb. A compass error meant we got lost at the top and walked along a knife sharp ridge, the steep sides either side of us swimming in and out of view as the clouds moved.

On the first day of poorer weather we built an igloo. An ice saw was used to cut massive blocks in the ‘block factory’ which were then transported to the igloo building site on a pulk board. After 3 ½ hours the ‘ugloo’ was completed – it wasn’t picture perfect and was shaped more like a beehive but was massive, even allowing for standing room.


Emily, Ash and Joe with their ‘ugloo’. Photo L. Dickinson

We spent the evening making a cake for Richard’s birthday, concocted of digestive biscuits, jelly, crème choc chip desert and sprinkles. We surprised him with it at breakfast, then spent the rest of the day chilling, doing a treasure hunt and building a ‘snowhenge’, praying to the sun gods for the sun. After a week we joined the biologists and re-climbed Knorringfjellet but this time were able to see the spectacular view from the top. We bivvied out that night, only getting snowed on a little.


Isbjørn reunited and on top of Knorringfjellet, last’adventure’ before starting the glacier science work. Photo L. Dickinson

Home to BC3

Isbjørn start the move down to Base Camp 3, stopping in Wimandalen. Polarrev also set off home, up and over the Blackbreen and down Knorringbreen and Wimandalen to camp at Base Camp 3. The biologists return from the last goose count on Diabasodden and then join Rype for a bird walk up the ridge of Grønsteinfjellet. Cloud, light northerly, +6ºc.

Bivvying Out

Isbjørn climb Telgefjellet and then make a bivouac on the mountain. Polarrev finish the Blackbreen RTK GPS survey and snow pits as well as complete the slush surveys. The biologists carry out the beach survey, snowpack survey and join Rype to complete the cliff walk below Diabasodden and see the local arctic fox twice. Low cloud, northerly breeze, 0ºc.

River Crossings wet???

Isbjørn complete the Staket horseshoe and expect to collect Helen at 2200hrs at a rendezvous on the Blackbreen. Polarev complete a ski mountaineering tour of Ottofjellet. Lucy B afterwards heads down De Geerdalen to meet up with Helen and take her back to Tobredalen.

Lucy B has 1 wet river crossing on the way out and 2 with Helen on the way back, slowing their progress so they arrive back at Tobredalen science camp around 2000hrs, too late for the planned delivery of Helen by Pat and Lucy B to Richard on the glacier. Lucy D delivers Helen to the meet up with Lucy B in De Geerdalen, collecting rubbish, poo and redundant science kit to bring back to Base Camp 3. The Isbjørn biologists return at lunchtime from the goose count, the numbers are going down. Rype return to Base Camp 3. Light easterly, clear going cloudy, 0ºc.

Sauna Day

Isbjørn ascend the Brandtbreen to the Brandtbreen col and Polarrev make an RTK GPS survey of the Tobredalen river as well as a sediment survey. Isbjørn biology continue working from Base Camp and in the afternoon construct a tepee and have a sauna, enjoying the heat and the cooling wash in the river afterwards. Steve and Fay then head off in the afternoon for another evening and morning of goose counting. Rype start heading back, stopping when they get to Deltadalen. Northerly breeze, some cloud, temperature not recorded.


Teepee sauna on the beach at Base Camp 3 Photo L. Dickinson

Alpine Starts

Isbjørn move their camp up Hanaskogdalen and then summit on Hiorthfjellet. Lucy D accompanies James into De Geerdalen. They have to carry their kit to the Wimanelva, then walk up to the Grnøsteinfjellet col pulling the pulks and carry the pulks over bare patches of ground on the col. Pat picks up James from DeGeerdalen and Polarrev celebrate Emily’s birthday. Isbjørn biology, Steve and Fay, return from the hide midday and continue the projects from Base Camp. Rype continue with alpine starts and manage a safe passage into Louisdalen and then continue along the north shore of Adventfjorden to Hiorthhamn. Strange to see trucks and cars driving along the roads on the otherside of Adventfjorden, in Longyearbyen.

Geese surveying

Isbjørn continue down Hanaskogdalen to the coast whilst Polarrev write up science. Isbjørn biology walk under the bird cliffs of Diabasodden and learn to identify the different bird species and continue monitoring the snow patch. Steve and Fay then spend the night in the hide counting the geese from 1900 to 2300 and 0700 to 1100 on 3.6.09. Rype have an alpine start to try to find a safe way round the north of Forkastningsfjellet, with no success. Northerly breeze,
clear, +2ºc.


Rype on recce for the route for expedition walk back to Hiortthamn. The col separating Carolindalen and Louisdalen in the background has a maximum slope of 50 degrees. It is manageable with an expedition sack, just won’t be much fun! Photo Rype

Surges to Recces

Isbjørn move down to the bottom of Hanaskogdalen whilst Polarrev dig two more snow pits and continue to monitor surge activity. Lucy, Helen, Steve, Fay and James come back down to Base Camp 3 (Isbjørn biology) and Rype start their reconnaissance of the route home and get as far as Carolinedalen. Still, some cloud, +7ºc.